610 Magnolia

"Located in historic Old Louisville, 610 Magnolia is contemporary yet rustic, elegant with original wooden beams, mullioned windows and French doors that open seasonally to an outdoor garden patio. The restaurant has been featured in Bon Appetit, Food & Wine, The New York Times Magazine, Saveur, Southern Living, Esquire, Wine Enthusiast and many other national publications."

"Chef/Owner Edward Lee has been with 610 Magnolia since 2004. Since then, he has been a multiple finalist for the James Beard Foundation Best Chef Southeast. He has written a cookbook, Smoke & Pickles, that celebrates his cooking of honoring Southern cuisine with Asian flavors. Chef Lee was the culinary host of Season 3 of Mind of a Chef and is currently a guest judge on MasterChef."

Chef / Owner Edward Lee



Dinner Menu


BLT Amuse Bouche with Foie Gras


Chawanmushi, Lobster, Chicken Skin Furikake, Charred Scallion Dust

Freedom Run Lamb Heart, Henry Bain Tare, Walnut Milk, Zuchinni, Jicama

Charred Corn Husk Pici, Wild Mussels, Fennel, Chow-Chow, Gochujang Butter

Wagyu Beef Tongue, Daikon Pancake, Sauerkraut Kimchi, Gochujang

Hiramasa Kingfish Crudo, Littleneck Clam, Jalapeno, Dehydrated Okra, Tomato Water

Atlantic Grouper, Garden Squash, Eggplant, Tomato, Red Pepper, Edamame, Marjoram 

Duck Breast, Faro, Salsify, Brussels Sprout, Kimchi, Fried Quail Egg, Pomegranate Jus

Lemon Lime Orange

Lemon Meringue Pie, Candied Kumquats and Lime-Mint Sorbet


Reinvention

The Potato Tornado!

Trinchero Family Estates

They now have a Hospitality Center to house Trinchero's internationally recognized Vine to Dine® wine and culinary education programs. The Hospitality Center features a Tuscan-style culinary center with indoor and outdoor kitchens and dining, vinegar solera, woodburning ovens, reserve tasting room and cellar, and culinary gardens.

The dinner table they setup in one of the barrel rooms.


The barrel room with French oak barrels. These barrels cost about $1,200 and are only used once.


Fermentation tanks.


Tasting room.


The new kitchen in the Hospitality Center. The kitchen opened two days before we arrived.


Myself in the kitchen. I'm really uncomfortable in any kitchen without my whites.

I thought this was cool, right outside the kitchen was a wall with hundreds of burning candles.


A view from outside the kitchen.

Balsamic "Air"

I was experimenting with balsamic vinegar and inadvertently crossed over several different science basics and came up with “Balsamic Air” [Y x B / K° = WTwow!]. This is a cross section view of two large slabs stacked on top of each other. You can see the air-like texture that makes it eat like meringue. A 12”x 12” x ½ “piece barely weighs 5 oz. The applications for this are….well, I’ll get to that later.


Fried Chicken Love

Unquestionably fried chicken is something people are passionate about. It ranks right up there with barbeque. There's regional favorites and family favorites, brines galore, secret seasoning recipes, and the list goes on. Fried chicken has gone up-scale in places like Thomas Keller's ad hoc Restaurant in Yountville where he serves it at least once a week. Does the US have a global dominance on Fried Chicken?......I don't know, Yelp lists 10 pages of Korean fried chicken restaurants in NYC alone!

Buttermilk Fried Chicken
Watermelon salad with mirin and jalapenos, mashed sweet potatoes, honey infused with bourbon barrel smoked black pepper and sage.



"Could I have a side of hush puppies with that too?"



76 Years In The Making

I have a booklet that was printed in 1940 by the Fleischmann Yeast Company. This booklet was geared towards the restaurant industry. The large batch of basic sweet dough is a 210 lb. recipe.

Who used this booklet? Whose hand written notes are those in the pages? Where did they work? Did they like their job? What type of ovens did they use?.....my imagination takes me to a time gone by. In 1940 Hitler and Mussolini formed an alliance against France, Paris & London were being bombed, Franklin D. Roosevelt was elected president and the world was in turmoil. Yet, somewhere, someone was making bread that perhaps brought some normalcy and comfort to peoples lives; these breads were probably viewed as luxuries and reserved for special occasions like the holidays. I have to believe that no matter how hard conditions were that people could find some solace in honest food that was made by passionate people.

After looking at this book for several years and imagining who might have used it I decided it was my turn, 76 years after the original owner. I resurrected the sweet dough formula and made the Dutch cake, which is not a cake but a sweet bread with brioche characteristics.

The master recipe has an ingredient called "Sugar Yolks" which do not contain sugar. One pound of sugar yolks is 22 to 24 yolks. Two lbs of sugar yolks can be replaced with 3 pounds of whole eggs. Old recipes contain some interesting terminology like "C", this is what brown sugar is called in old baking books. I can only assume this terminology was used to avoid confusing one ingredient for another.

This is the dough from a small 18 lb batch. We added black currants, golden raisins and candied orange peel to the master recipe.


The dough divided into 1 lb. loaves after proofing for 2 1/2 hours.




The bread was egg washed and baked at 350° for 30 minutes. After the loaves cooled icing or powdered sugar was applied.


This is the genuine article. This recipe needs to be made more than once every 68 years.



The Fleischmann's Basic Sweet Dough Formula booklet.


Small batch is 33 lbs, large batch is 210 lbs.


The Dutch cake recipe using the dough formula.


A similar holiday recipe for stollen.

Grasshopper Taco

In Washington, D.C., at José Andrés' Oyamel restaurant I of course ordered the Chapulines, a legendary Oaxacan taco specialty that features sautéed grasshoppers



Not Your Mom's Spaghetti

A departure from the pasta-norm but definably not a departure from flavor!

Lemon-herb marinated chicken spiedini, romano spaghetti squash, tomatoes, basil infused olive oil, garlic toast, grilled lemon.



Pecan Pie Quandary

What size and shape to make? Well, no matter the shape they were all delicious!

The filling is made with Kentucky bourbon and a small dose of sorghum to give it depth, and of course the pecans plus the other usual ingredients.

Peaches and Cream Ice cream from the famed Comfy Cow in Louisville is the perfect accompaniment for any and all of these!

Large "Vertically Constructed" Pecan Tassies


If there was such a thing as the "Pecan Pie Mother Load" it would look like this!



The rustic cast iron dish seems so fitting and makes warming it up easy, which is a must!.....warm, gooey pecan pie goodness with some ice cream.....this is a dessert you can get possessive about, "If you want some dessert order your own! Get your fork out of my dessert!"



Solid Advice

A great reminder that cooking just doesn't happen by putting all the ingredients in a pan, it's a very intuitive skill that requires analyzing the product at hand, heat source, and desired finished product.....and hopefully this all happens in 5 seconds or less during a Saturday night dinner rush!

Crabapple Cookery

I've had a crabapple tree for 10 years and always ignored it....until now! I always let the birds swoop in this time of year and pick the tree clean.  For lack of cranberry bogs in Kansas I thought I would give these the "Cranberry Treatment".

First step - get the crabapples off the tree!



Next step, clean and sort through the fruit.



Next I placed them into a large non-reactive pan with jalapenos, fresh ginger, cinnamon sticks, apple cider, honey, and sugar. This cooks until all of the berries burst open. They are then pressed through a fine mesh strainer. This is exactly like cooking cranberries.



Sweet, tart crabapple jelly.



A Thanksgiving Story

Some stories from the trenches are worth telling. This happened to me at a former restaurants on the Country Club Plaza in Kansas City.

Thanksgiving Evening 1984

It's now 6:00 pm and we've fed over 1200 people, the restaurant is still packed with people waiting for the Plaza lights to be turned on. They're in the holiday mood and thrilled to be in the warmth of one of the highest acclaimed restaurants in the country, this is a special night. I'm standing on the line in the display kitchen with an exhausted crew, partaking in some complimentary post shift drinks. All of a sudden there's a loud scream as a lady darts out of the restroom with her pants halfway down around her knees, it's more of a waddle than a full-out run. She manages to pull her pants up as she rounds the charcuterie station, past the dessert case, and into the middle of the dining room. She now begins to stutter hysterically, T-T-T-T-T-T-T-TURKEY!, her hands are gesturing wildly towards the restroom and she continues to scream TURKEY! TURKEY! TURKEY!. The entire dining room breaks into applause as if the curtain had just been lifted at a Broadway show. I'm thinking, our turkey was pretty damn good today, but not good enough to announce it to the whole dining room in the semi-buff, perhaps she is really drunk.

Now there's more screaming from the bar area.....THERE'S A LIVE TURKEY IN THE WOMEN'S RESTROOM!!!, with that I instinctively bolt off the line flanked by two blood thirsty cooks with french knives. We are now in hunter-chef mode. Right outside the display kitchen our hunt is halted by Doug, the GM,....."What the hell do you think you're doing!!??", Doug doesn't realize that after 8 hours of hacking turkeys from their roasted carcasses we've become very numb, crazed and vengeful towards the birds....."Dougy, it's F*$%ING thanksgiving and someone yelled LIVE TURKEY, we're on re-con". My partners in crime put down their knives because Doug was panicking; the mob scene at the bar-restroom area was escalating. We made our way to the women's restroom, went inside, and indeed there was a live turkey!! Someone had put it in one of the stalls and evidently climbed out from underneath and left it trapped inside. The bird was crazed (like us), banging around inside the stall, making screeching-gobbling noises, and crapping everywhere except in the toilet! Doug kicked the door open, my cooks lunged at the bird and held it down, I took off my apron and threw it over the birds head and tied it with the apron strings. The police were called but couldn't get there because the streets were jammed with a couple hundred thousand people. Plaza security was sent in to take custody of the bird. The crowd was cheering as the apron hooded bird was hauled off......I'm not sure if the applause was for the bird, or us and our SWAT-like tactics.

The women who first encountered the bird said she went in to use the restroom, entered the stall and took her appropriate place on the commode......and then it happened, the bird began to gobble and bang against the walls of the stall next to her, she could see it's feet and wings as she looked down under the partition!! She was in such a state of shock that she opened the door and ran out without thinking to pull her pants up....and then, like a bad dream, she was in the dining room without the proper attire.

The next day the story appeared on local television. This incident became a favorite after-work-drinking-war-story-conversation, the conspiracy theory runs deep. To this day I don't know how someone could have made it through the restaurant undetected with a live turkey, slipped into the restroom and disappeared.

Happy Thanksgiving,
Dan

Webster House

A great dining destination in Kansas City!

Jumbo Shrimp and Anson Mills Grits
Burger’s Country Ham, Red Eye Gravy, Sautéed Mushrooms, Roasted Red Peppers, and Scallions
 


"Bacon & Eggs"
House Cured Pork Belly, Sunny Side-Up Quail Egg, Sweet Potato, Poblano, Red Bell Pepper Hash & Smoked Tomato Aioli

Alton Brown's Turkey Derrick

You have to love any recipe that includes the following text.

WARNING: Failure to follow these instructions could result in fire or explosion which could cause property damage, personal injury or death.

Follow the link below for the full set of Alton's Turkey Tower!

http://www.altonbrown.com/pdfs/AB_turkey_derrick.pdf

Thanksgiving on a Bun

It really is ashamed that turkey, stuffing and cranberry sauce got labeled as food you traditionally only prepare once a year. It's not just me, most people I talk to also crave this flavor combination all year but they feel like there's some sort of clandestine authority controlling the days where it's socially acceptable to prepare the feast......I mean Jeez! someone might frown upon you making this combo of goodness on any other day than Thanksgiving.

My solution to this paradigm isn't to do a full-blown Thanksgiving dinner. I just want all of those familiar flavors, so I made "Thanksgiving on a Bun".

It was absolutely everything I wanted. As I ate it a thought crossed my mind, why is it so satisfying to eat with your hands? especially something that always requires a full set of serving and eating utensils. Maybe this year for Thanksgiving dinner I will remove the silverware from the table.

Unhinge your jaw Pilgrim!

Grilled turkey burger, crispy stuffing, cranberry mayo, and gravy

Sriracha Sauce Refillable Key Chain!

As reported by Eater....."Sriracha2Go Is the Most Adorable Unlicensed Sriracha Experience Around"

If you don't want to leave Rooster Sauce at home when dining out then get one of these and never find yourself saying "I think this would be much better if it had a little Sriracha sauce on it!"



Pimento Cheese + What to do with the leftovers

A low country staple, pimento cheese spread. This has a nice kick with a smoky finish provided by smoked paprika......oh yeah, and then there's the ham! which is cooked down in a "Redeye Reduction" with a heavy dose of Kentucky bourbon. There are endless preparations you can make with leftovers like melting it on burgers, pimento cheese creamed corn, or what I have below!

Pimento Cheese with Bourbon Glazed Kentucky Ham
with homemade S+P cracker and celery



And now it gets really interesting, these are absolutely amazing! Roll up your sleeves....

Grilled Pimento Cheese Sandwich
with sourdough and Kentucky ham